France Targets Fast Fashion with New Eco-Tax Bill
In a move toward environmental reform, the French Senate has passed a new bill aimed at minimizing the damage of fast fashion, specifically targeting ultra-fast e-commerce giants Shein and Temu. The legislation, which passed with 337 votes in favor, introduces eco-taxes, advertising restrictions, and penalties for influencers who promote these brands. It could become one of Europe’s strongest efforts yet to rein in fast fashion culture.
Critics Say the Bill Doesn’t Go Far Enough
While environmental advocates welcome the bill's intention, many believe the language is too soft and misses an opportunity to create real, systemic change.
The bill introduces an “eco-score” system that evaluates products based on emissions, resource use, and recyclability. Companies with the lowest scores could face taxes of up to €5 per item by 2025, increasing to €10 by 2030. However, the tax cannot exceed 50 percent of the item’s original retail price. Supporters see this cap as a compromise between encouraging sustainable consumption and keeping clothing affordable for the average shopper.
Influencer Marketing Faces New Limits
To slow down the trend cycle driven by influencer marketing, the bill bans advertising for ultra-fast fashion brands and allows for penalties against influencers who promote them on social media. This is a significant shift for many creators whose content is funded by fast fashion partnerships!
Although Shein and Temu are clearly the focus of the bill, major European retailers such as Zara, H&M, and Kiabi are largely spared from the strictest regulations. Environmental groups have questioned this selective enforcement.
“We’ve got a text that’s going to target two brands and therefore leave out what represents at least 90 percent of production and clothing sold in France,” said Pierre Condamine, campaign manager at Friends of the Earth France. “So it’s a missed opportunity. In the end, we can see that it’s economic protection that has become the major driving force behind this bill.”
A Balancing Act Between Economy and Ecology
Supporters of the bill argue that it is a necessary first step toward protecting European industries.
“Unfortunately, we have no choice,” said Senator Sylvie Valente Le Hir, a conservative lawmaker who supports the bill. “We still have to defend what's left of our European industries. We're talking about scales that are 100 times larger than us.”
Her remarks highlight the tension between sustainability goals and economic survival. European fashion production is increasingly outcompeted by global e-commerce platforms that rely on low prices..
“If we don't protect them, there will be nothing left,” Le Hir said.
Could This Spark a Cultural Shift?
One of the bill’s most distinctive features is its focus on marketing. Influencers who post large fast fashion hauls from Shein or Temu could now face penalties.
This restriction could prompt a cultural shift by limiting the glamorization of overconsumption and placing more responsibility on consumers. Public visibility of the legislation may help reshape how people view clothing value and consumption, reducing the influence of social media trends.
Yes, the bill is imperfect. It spares certain brands. But even critics agree that it is a step in the right direction. There is hope that future legislation will go further to include other major fast fashion companies.
Pushback from the Industry
Shein has already pushed back. Spokesperson Quentin Ruffat warned that the legislation could affect the purchasing power of French consumers. The statement reflects how closely fast fashion has become tied to what many people consider affordable.
But affordability can’t come at the cost of the environment. According to France’s environment agency ADEME, 35 clothing items are discarded every second in France. The problem is urgent, and France appears ready to act.
What’s Next?
The bill now heads to a joint committee of senators and deputies in September. It must also be approved by the European Commission to ensure it complies with EU trade rules. If adopted, it would become one of the most aggressive policies in Europe aimed at curbing fast fashion!
Consumers, designers, and policymakers are beginning to hold the fashion industry more accountable. For those of us working in sustainable fashion, this legislation brings a sense of momentum and hope.